Chicken Feeding Guide: What to Feed Chickens at Every Age

Feeding chickens does not need to be complicated. The key is to provide a complete poultry feed formulated for your chickens’ age and purpose, keep fresh water available, and treat extras like scratch grains and kitchen scraps as occasional snacks—not the foundation of the diet. In this chicken feeding guide, you’ll learn what to feed baby chicks, growing pullets, laying hens, roosters, and mixed-age flocks. We’ll also cover daily feeding amounts, protein and calcium needs, grit, oyster shell, treats, feed storage, and the most common feeding mistakes.

For troubleshooting a specific soft-shell symptom, see What Causes Rubbery Chicken Eggs?

If you are still planning your first flock, begin with our cornerstone guide, Backyard Chickens 101: The Ultimate Beginner’s Guide.

Quick Chicken Feeding Chart by Age

Always follow the instructions on your feed label because recommended transition ages and nutrient levels can vary slightly by manufacturer.

These ranges agree with guidance from Oregon State University Extension, which recommends starter feed from hatch to approximately six weeks, grower or developer feed until laying begins, and layer feed when hens reach approximately 18–20 weeks or lay their first egg.

Complete Feed Should Be the Foundation

A commercially prepared complete feed is designed to supply the protein, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins, minerals, and amino acids chickens need at a particular life stage.

Complete feed should normally account for at least 90% of what your chickens eat. Pasture, insects, scratch grains, vegetables, and treats can add variety and enrichment, but they cannot reliably replace a properly formulated ration.

When chickens fill up on too many extras, they consume less complete feed. This can dilute their overall nutrition and contribute to:

• Reduced egg production
• Thin or weak eggshells
• Poor feather quality
• Slow growth
• Obesity or fatty liver problems
• Nutritional deficiencies
• Increased feather picking
• Poor recovery during molting

Free-ranging chickens still need complete feed. The amount and nutritional value of available plants, seeds, and insects changes with the weather and season, so foraging alone does not provide a reliably balanced diet.

Complementary products such as Hilton Herbs Daily Hen Health may be used only as directed alongside a complete ration; they do not make an incomplete diet nutritionally complete.

What to Feed Baby Chicks

Baby chicks should receive chick starter as soon as they are placed in the brooder. Starter feed is finely ground or made into small crumbles that are easy for tiny beaks to manage.

For egg-laying breeds, look for a starter containing approximately 18–20% protein. Meat-bird starter is often higher in protein and should be used as part of a feeding program specifically formulated for broilers. One current non-medicated option is Chickie’s First Meal baby chick starter feed, which provides 20% protein in crumble form and is available in 5 lb and 12 lb bags.

Keep starter feed available throughout the day. Chicks grow rapidly and eat many small meals rather than one or two large meals.

Medicated or Nonmedicated Chick Starter?

Medicated chick starter commonly contains a coccidiostat intended to help control coccidiosis. Nonmedicated starter does not.

The right choice depends on factors including:

• Whether the chicks were vaccinated against coccidiosis
• The active ingredient in the feed
• Your brooder and sanitation practices
• Previous coccidiosis problems
• Recommendations from the hatchery or poultry veterinarian

Some medicated feeds may interfere with certain coccidiosis vaccines. Check the chick vaccination record and read the feed label before choosing. Never assume that “medicated” feed prevents every chick disease.

For a complete brooder setup and care schedule, read How to Care for Baby Chicks.

Do Baby Chicks Need Grit?

Chicks eating only a commercially prepared starter crumble generally do not need supplemental grit.

Once they begin eating treats, fibrous plants, insects, or foods other than complete feed, offer appropriately sized chick grit in a separate container. Little Farmer Chickies True Grit! baby chick grit is a 5 lb option labeled for chicks over 2 weeks old; follow the package directions. Do not mix large amounts directly into their feed.

Chick grit and oyster shell are not interchangeable. Grit helps grind food in the gizzard; oyster shell supplies calcium.

Do Not Give Layer Feed to Chicks

Layer feed contains substantially more calcium than starter or grower feed. That calcium supports eggshell formation in actively laying hens, but it is inappropriate for chicks and immature pullets.

Young birds should remain on a feed formulated for growth until they approach laying age.

What to Feed Growing Pullets

Around six weeks of age—or according to the schedule printed on your chosen feed—transition chicks from starter to grower or developer feed.

Grower feed commonly contains approximately 15–16% protein. It supports steady skeletal and muscular development without pushing pullets into excessively rapid growth.

A developer ration may be introduced later in adolescence, depending on the brand’s feeding program. Grower and developer feeds should remain the primary diet until the first egg appears or the pullets reach the layer-feed transition age shown on the label.

Do not rush pullets onto layer feed simply because they look nearly grown. Their nutritional needs change when egg production begins, not merely when they resemble adult hens.

What to Feed Laying Hens

Begin offering layer feed when a pullet lays her first egg or reaches approximately 18–20 weeks of age, whichever happens first. Breed, season, health, and daylight can all affect the exact age at which laying begins.

A typical layer ration contains:

• Approximately 16% protein
• Around 3–4% calcium
• Balanced phosphorus and vitamin D
• Amino acids needed for feather and egg production
• Vitamins, minerals, fats, and carbohydrates

Layer feed is available as mash, crumbles, and pellets. Nutritionally complete versions can all work well.

Mash, Crumbles, or Pellets?

Mash is finely ground. Chickens may enjoy sorting through it, but selective eating and waste can occur if the ration separates.

Crumbles are broken pellets. They are easy to eat and work well for pullets, bantams, and adult hens.

Pellets are compact and generally create less waste. Some chickens need a short adjustment period when switching from crumbles or mash.

Choose the form your flock eats consistently with the least waste. The nutritional label matters more than the feed’s physical shape.

How Much Feed Does a Chicken Eat Per Day?

An average standard-size laying hen commonly eats approximately ¼ pound, or four ounces, of feed per day. That equals roughly 1½–1¾ pounds per week.

Actual consumption varies according to:

• Breed and body size
• Age
• Egg production
• Feed composition
• Weather
• Molting
• Foraging opportunities
• Health
• The amount of treats offered

Bantams generally eat less, while large breeds and highly productive layers may eat more. Cold conditions may increase energy needs. During severe heat, chickens often eat less, making nutrient-dense complete feed especially important.

Estimated Feed Needs by Flock Size

These are planning estimates, not strict portions. Healthy laying hens should normally have access to complete feed throughout the day.

If your flock empties its feeder unusually quickly, check for spilled feed, rodents, wild birds, moisture damage, or a feeder that allows chickens to rake food onto the ground. A properly mounted no waste chicken feeder can help limit feed flicked onto the floor without replacing daily feeder inspection.

Should Chickens Be Fed Once or Twice a Day?

The simplest approach for most backyard flocks is free-choice feeding: keep a clean, dry supply of complete feed available during waking hours.

You can refill or inspect the feeder once or twice daily, but the goal is not to restrict the flock to one or two short meals. Chickens naturally eat many small meals throughout the day.

Check feeders every morning and again before the flock returns to the coop. This routine helps you notice appetite changes, contamination, pests, and equipment problems quickly.

If feed is placed inside the coop, protect it from moisture and consider whether it may attract rodents overnight. Many keepers place the feeder in a covered, predator-secure run instead.

Feeding a Mixed-Age or Mixed-Sex Flock

Layer feed is not the best sole ration for a flock containing chicks, immature pullets, roosters, or nonlaying birds because its calcium level is designed for active egg production.

For a mixed flock:

1. Choose an all-flock or flock-maintenance feed appropriate for the youngest birds.
2. Keep that complete ration available to everyone.
3. Offer oyster shell separately for actively laying hens.
4. Use age-appropriate grit when the birds consume grains, vegetation, or treats.

Laying hens generally regulate their own intake of free-choice oyster shell, while roosters and young birds are less likely to consume unnecessary amounts when it is offered separately. An appropriately mounted V-shaped chicken feeder cup can provide a dedicated station for oyster shell or grit while keeping it separate from complete feed.

Very young chicks may still need to be separated if larger birds prevent them from reaching food or water.

Oyster Shell and Calcium for Laying Hens

Calcium is essential for eggshell formation and skeletal health. Layer feed normally supplies a substantial amount, but some hens may benefit from free-choice oyster shell—particularly highly productive layers or hens producing thin-shelled eggs.

Place oyster shell in a separate, weather-protected container rather than mixing large quantities into the feed. This allows each hen to consume what she needs.

Do not feed oyster shell as a replacement for complete layer feed. It supplies calcium but not the protein, energy, vitamins, and other minerals required for health and egg production.

Persistent thin shells can have multiple causes, including age, heat stress, disease, nutritional imbalance, or poor feed intake. The Merck Veterinary Manual notes that deficiencies involving calcium, phosphorus, or vitamin D can contribute to serious metabolic and skeletal problems. Contact a poultry veterinarian if shell problems continue despite an appropriate diet.

Grit vs. Oyster Shell: What Is the Difference?

These two products serve completely different purposes.

Chickens with regular access to suitable soil may find small stones naturally, but purchased poultry grit provides a reliable, appropriately sized source. Oyster shell is too soft and soluble to perform the grinding function of insoluble grit.

For a 5 lb granite-containing option, see True Grit! poultry grit. This blend also contains limestone, so check the package label for age guidance and account for your flock’s separate calcium needs.

How Many Treats Can Chickens Have?

Treats, scratch, scraps, and supplemental foods should collectively remain below approximately 10% of the flock’s daily diet. The other 90% or more should come from complete feed.

Oregon State University Extension recommends limiting scratch to roughly 10–15% of daily consumption and warns that excess scratch dilutes the nutrients in a prepared ration. For a simple, conservative household rule, use the 90/10 guideline.

Offer treats after the flock has eaten its complete feed—not first thing in the morning when birds are hungriest. For leafy greens and larger vegetables, a secure chicken treat basket can keep the serving contained and off the ground.

If you prefer a packaged option, compare insects, fish-and-shrimp blends, mixed textures, and chick-sized ingredients in our Little Farmer chicken treats and supplements guide. One option is the Chicken Fun-Doo Non-GMO soy-free chicken treat, a mix of layer pellets, mealworms, peas, grains, seeds, and herbs that should be offered after complete feed.

Better Treat Choices

In moderation, chickens may enjoy:

• Dried black soldier fly larvae
• Mealworms
• Plain cooked egg
• Leafy greens
• Berries
• Melon
• Cucumber
• Pumpkin
• Peas
• Small quantities of corn
• Plain, unsalted cooked grains
• Commercially formulated poultry treats

Protein-rich treats may be helpful during molting, but they still should not displace a balanced feed. More protein is not automatically better, and treats cannot correct a poorly balanced primary diet. Add a Bug mixed-insect chicken treats provides a mixed-insect option, while Good Deal Grubs dried black soldier fly larvae is a single-ingredient option available in 1, 5 and 11 lb sizes. Offer either only in moderation after complete feed.

During hot weather, consult our guide to the Best Frozen Treats for Chickens.

Foods to Avoid

Do not feed chickens:

• Moldy or spoiled food
• Avocado pits and skins
• Dried or undercooked beans
• Green potato skins or sprouts
• Very salty foods
• Sugary desserts
• Alcohol
• Caffeine
• Chocolate
• Foods treated with pesticides not approved for feed use

Onions, garlic, and strongly flavored foods are not necessarily acutely toxic in small amounts, but large quantities may affect feed intake or egg flavor. When in doubt, skip the scrap and give the flock its complete feed.

See Safe Treats for Chickens: Healthy Snacks and Foods to Avoid for a more detailed food list, along with Foods Chickens Should Never Eat.

Is Scratch Feed the Same as Chicken Feed?

No. Scratch is a mixture of grains offered for enrichment. It is not a complete ration and normally contains too little protein, calcium, and other essential nutrients to support laying hens by itself.

Scatter a small amount in clean bedding or across the run to encourage scratching and natural foraging. Only offer what the flock can clean up promptly. Grain left overnight can attract rodents and wildlife.

Scratch can be especially enjoyable during cool weather, but it does not “heat” a chicken in a medicinal sense. Digestion produces some heat, yet proper shelter, dry bedding, balanced nutrition, and unfrozen water remain more important.

Always provide grit when chickens eat whole or cracked grains and cannot obtain suitable grit naturally.

Water Is Part of the Feeding Program

Water is the most important nutrient in your flock’s diet. Chickens must have continuous access to clean, fresh water whenever they are awake.

According to Oregon State University Extension, chickens may drink two to three times as much water by weight as the amount of feed they consume, with intake increasing during warm weather.

Insufficient water can quickly cause:

• Reduced feed intake
• Fewer eggs
• Smaller eggs
• Heat stress
• Dehydration
• Poor digestion
• Serious illness or death

Clean waterers regularly and position them to reduce bedding, droppings, and spilled feed contamination. During hot weather, refresh the water frequently and place drinkers in shade.

Our How to Keep Chickens Cool in Summer Heat guide explains how water, shade, airflow, and feeding schedules work together during extreme temperatures.

How to Reduce Feed Waste

Feed waste increases costs and attracts pests. A properly adjusted feeder can make a substantial difference.

To reduce waste:

• Raise the feeder so the feeding edge is approximately level with the chickens’ backs.
• Avoid filling an open trough to the top.
• Use a feeder with an anti-scratch or anti-spill design.
• Provide enough feeding positions for lower-ranking hens.
• Place the feeder under cover.
• Repair cracks and loose fittings.
• Clean spilled feed promptly.
• Consider a treadle feeder where rodents and wild birds are persistent problems.
• Keep feed away from rain, leaking drinkers, and damp bedding.

For compatible hanging equipment, an adjustable poultry feeder and waterer hanging cord can make height changes easier without retying the cord.

For a coordinated floor-or-hanging option, see the floral chicken feeder and drinker set, which includes a 4 kg feeder and 5 L drinker with raised legs.

Observe the flock while it eats. If a dominant hen guards the feeder, add a second feeding station far enough away that she cannot control both.

Browse chicken feeders and drinkers designed to keep feed cleaner and reduce everyday waste.

How to Store Chicken Feed Safely

Store feed in a cool, dry, protected location. Transfer opened bags to a clean container with a secure lid to discourage rodents, insects, and moisture.

Good storage practices include:

• Keep the container off concrete floors if condensation is possible.
• Use the oldest feed first.
• Retain the feed label and lot number until the bag is finished.
• Buy quantities the flock can consume while the feed is fresh.
• Never mix fresh feed into a dirty container.
• Clean and completely dry storage bins before refilling.
• Discard feed that smells musty, appears moldy, has become wet, or is heavily infested.

Oregon State University Extension recommends storing poultry feed for no more than approximately two months because old feed can lose nutritional value and damp feed may develop dangerous molds.

How to Change Chicken Feed

Avoid an abrupt change when possible. A gradual transition helps the flock accept a new texture or formulation and makes it easier to identify digestive problems.

If droppings change during a feed transition, use the Chicken Poop Guide to separate normal variation from warning signs.

A simple transition schedule is:

• Days 1–2: 75% old feed and 25% new feed
• Days 3–4: 50% old feed and 50% new feed
• Days 5–6: 25% old feed and 75% new feed
• Day 7: 100% new feed

A transition is especially useful when moving between brands or changing from mash to pellets. Life-stage changes should still occur within the timing recommended by the feed manufacturer.

If feed becomes contaminated, moldy, or subject to a recall, stop using it immediately rather than completing a gradual transition.

Seasonal Feeding Considerations

Feeding Chickens in Summer

Chickens often eat less during extreme heat. Offer fresh complete feed during the cooler morning hours, keep feeders shaded, and provide unlimited cool water.

Avoid large servings of scratch corn in hot weather. Corn is not inherently dangerous, but excessive energy-rich treats further dilute the diet when overall feed consumption is already reduced.

Feeding Chickens in Winter

Feed consumption may rise as chickens use energy to maintain body temperature. Continue offering a complete ration throughout the day and prevent water from freezing.

A small amount of scratch can be used as evening enrichment, but it should not replace balanced feed.

Feeding Chickens During Molting

Molting hens temporarily redirect nutrients from egg production toward feather growth. Continue feeding a nutritionally complete ration and limit low-protein treats. A balanced all-flock or higher-protein poultry ration may be appropriate, depending on the flock and product label.

Common Chicken Feeding Mistakes

1. Feeding Too Many Treats

A flock can appear well-fed while still receiving poor nutrition. Treats may satisfy appetite without supplying the nutrients found in complete feed.

2. Starting Layer Feed Too Early

The elevated calcium in layer feed is intended for birds producing eggs, not growing chicks or pullets.

3. Using Scratch as the Main Diet

Scratch is enrichment, not complete nutrition.

4. Confusing Grit With Oyster Shell

Grit supports grinding and digestion. Oyster shell supplies calcium. Most laying flocks need access to both for different reasons.

5. Assuming Free-Range Chickens Do Not Need Feed

Forage availability and quality fluctuate too much to replace a balanced ration.

6. Allowing Feed to Become Damp

Wet or moldy feed can make chickens seriously ill. Discard questionable feed rather than trying to dry or salvage it.

7. Providing Too Little Feeder Space

Lower-ranking chickens may be quietly underfed even when feed remains in the container.

8. Ignoring Changes in Appetite

A sudden reduction in eating can be an early sign of heat stress, bullying, crop problems, parasites, infection, spoiled feed, or contaminated water.

A Simple Daily Feeding Routine

Every Morning

• Confirm that every bird is alert and able to reach the feeder.
• Refill complete feed as needed.
• Replace dirty or stale water.
• Check for wet, moldy, or spilled feed.
• Observe the flock eating for a few minutes.

During the Day

• Keep complete feed and water available.
• Offer limited treats only after the birds have eaten their primary ration.
• Remove uneaten fresh food before it spoils.
• Check water more frequently during hot weather.

Each Evening

• Estimate how much feed the flock consumed.
• Clean major spills.
• Secure feed from rodents and wildlife.
• Investigate any bird that did not eat normally.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best feed for backyard chickens?

The best feed is a fresh, commercially prepared complete ration labeled for the chickens’ current life stage. Chicks need starter, growing pullets need grower or developer feed, and actively laying hens need layer feed or an appropriate all-flock ration with separate calcium.

Can chickens eat only pellets?

Yes. If the pellets are labeled as a complete feed appropriate for the flock’s age and production stage, they can form the entire primary diet.

Can laying hens eat chick starter?

Chick starter does not normally provide enough calcium for long-term eggshell production. In a mixed flock, an appropriate all-flock feed is usually preferable, with oyster shell offered separately to laying hens.

Can roosters eat layer feed?

An occasional small amount is unlikely to create an emergency, but layer feed contains more calcium than roosters require. An all-flock or maintenance ration is a better long-term choice when roosters share the flock.

Do chickens stop eating when they are full?

Healthy laying hens usually regulate their consumption of complete feed reasonably well. However, they can overconsume highly appealing treats and scratch grains, which may unbalance their diet.

Should chicken feed be available all day?

For most backyard laying flocks, yes. Complete feed should generally remain available throughout waking hours, along with unlimited clean water.

Why are my chickens throwing feed on the ground?

The feeder may be too low, overfilled, or easy to scratch through. Chickens may also sort mash to select preferred ingredients. Raising the feeder, filling it less deeply, or switching to a waste-reducing design may help.

Does free-ranging reduce feed costs?

It may reduce consumption slightly when good forage is available, but free-ranging does not eliminate the need for complete feed. The nutritional value of pasture varies too widely by season and location.

The Bottom Line

A successful chicken feeding program rests on four essentials:

1. Choose a complete feed formulated for the flock’s life stage.
2. Keep fresh feed and clean water consistently available.
3. Offer grit and oyster shell for their correct, separate purposes.
4. Keep treats and scratch to a small part of the overall diet.

When chickens receive balanced nutrition from the beginning, they are better prepared for healthy growth, strong eggshells, consistent laying, successful molts, and seasonal weather challenges.

Feeding is only one part of raising a thriving flock. Continue with Backyard Chickens 101 for guidance on coops, breeds, daily care, health, and predator protection.